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What Are Seams?
Any garment is built on seams. They are the lines of stitching that join two or more pieces of fabric together to make flat layers of fabric into three dimensional clothing. The seams are not simply lines of points where fabric is put together, they shape the garment, providing structure, durability, and its aesthetics. A sewing project, whether a simple dress or an intricate couture gown, can make or break based on your choice of the right seam.
Seams are a creative element in garment construction beyond their simple functional purpose. Decorative seams for decorative purposes and flair, lapped seams for durability—knowing the various types has a lot to do with coming up with the right mix between form and function. There is a type of seam for each purpose, fabric and sewing technique, such as a flat felled seam or a bound seam. Even the best fabric can fall apart or lose its desired look without the proper seam selection.
How to Choose the Right Seam for Your Sewing Project
There are so many factors that will determine home much of a branch of that seam there’s choosing the appropriate seam in a given fabric, right? Seams such as the French seam are finished neatly and hide raw edges for lightweight fabrics. For thicker fabrics, a plain seam or welt seam provides strength and simplicity on the other hand.
Think about the seam allowance or the extra fabric on either side of the seam line. The generous seam allowance is for ease of alterations, and also adds to strength, especially when using thick fabrics. Also, your choice is influenced by where the seam is located, such as a side seam or back seam. Visible areas can be adorned with decorative seams, while closed seams in functional areas, such as seams that hold fabric pieces securely in place, are popular. Trying out different seam types will enhance your skill in garment making and make you a pro.
10 Essential Types of Seams You Need to Know
When it comes to garment making, understanding the different types of seams is essential for creating durable, functional, and visually appealing clothing for a fashion designer. Here’s a detailed breakdown of 10 essential seams every garment maker should know, including their characteristics, uses, and advantages.
- Plain Seam
- Characteristics: The simplest and most basic seam, joining two pieces of fabric by aligning their edges and stitching them together.
- Uses: Versatile and commonly used in most garments, from casual wear to formal clothing.
- Advantages: Easy to sew, inexpensive, and strong enough for most fabrics, making it ideal for everyday garments.
- French Seam
- Characteristics: A double-stitched seam that encloses the raw fabric edges within, providing a neat finish.
- Uses: Best for lightweight fabrics like silk, chiffon, and cotton, especially when no lining is used.
- Advantages: Offers a clean, professional finish inside and out, making it perfect for delicate fabrics and garments that need extra finesse.
- Flat-Felled Seam
- Characteristics: The edges of the fabric are overlapped and then stitched down, creating a strong, double-layered seam.
- Uses: Commonly used in heavy-duty fabrics such as denim, for jeans, workwear, and outdoor clothing.
- Advantages: Extremely durable, with a clean finish on the outside, ideal for areas subject to wear and tear.
- Bound Seam
- Characteristics: The raw edges of the fabric are covered with fabric binding to prevent fraying.
- Uses: Often used in unlined garments, such as dresses and skirts, where a polished finish is needed.
- Advantages: Provides a neat and professional look, perfect for high-end fashion or garments without linings.
- Lapped Seam
- Characteristics: One piece of fabric overlapped over the other and then stitched down.
- Uses: Typically used for shirts, outerwear, and garments where a clean but sturdy seam is required.
- Advantages: Strong, discreet, and creates a flat seam, making it suitable for garments where the seam is not meant to be visible.
- Double-Needle Seam
- Characteristics: A seam created using two parallel rows of stitching, typically done with a double-needle machine.
- Uses: Commonly found in activewear and knit fabrics, such as t-shirts or leggings.
- Advantages: Provides added strength and flexibility, ideal for stretchy fabrics and garments that need to move with the body.
- Overlocked Seam
- Characteristics: Uses an overlocker (serger) machine to stitch and finish the edges in one step.
- Uses: Frequently used in ready-to-wear garments for quick production and clean finishes on fabric edges.
- Advantages: Fast, efficient, and prevents raw edges from fraying, making it a great choice for mass-produced garments.
- Double-Felled Seam
- Characteristics: Similar to the flat-felled seam but with an additional layer of stitching for extra strength.
- Uses: Ideal for heavy fabrics like leather or denim, often used in high-stress areas.
- Advantages: Exceptionally strong and durable, perfect for garments exposed to heavy wear or outdoor conditions.
- Topstitch Seam
- Characteristics: A decorative seam stitched on the exterior of the garment, often along hems, seams, or edges.
- Uses: Common in jackets, pants, and other garments where visible stitching adds a design element.
- Advantages: Adds a stylish touch, reinforces the seam, and provides additional strength to areas like cuffs or collars.
- Inset Seam
- Characteristics: A seam used to insert a panel or gusset into the garment, allowing for more complex shaping.
- Uses: Often used for adding extra room or flexibility in areas like sleeves, waistbands, or side panels.
- Advantages: Creates a more structured fit and allows for greater movement, especially in activewear or garments requiring added flexibility.
| Seam Type | Characteristics | Uses | Advantages |
| Plain Seam | Simplest, basic, stitching two fabric edges together | Most garments, casual to formal | Easy to sew, inexpensive, strong |
| French Seam | Double-stitched, encloses raw edges | Lightweight fabrics like silk, chiffon, cotton | Clean finish inside and out, ideal for delicate fabrics |
| Flat-Felled Seam | Overlapped edges, double-layered | Heavy-duty fabrics, jeans, workwear | Extremely durable, clean outside finish |
| Bound Seam | Raw edges covered with fabric binding | Unlined garments, dresses, skirts | Neat, professional look, suitable for high-end fashion |
| Lapped Seam | One fabric piece overlapped over another, stitched down | Shirts, outerwear | Strong, discreet, creates a flat seam |
| Double-Needle Seam | Two parallel rows of stitching | Activewear, knit fabrics | Adds strength and flexibility, ideal for stretchy fabrics |
| Overlocked Seam | Uses an overlocker machine, stitches and finishes edges in one step | Ready-to-wear garments | Fast, efficient, prevents fraying |
| Double-Felled Seam | Similar to flat-felled but with extra stitching layer | Heavy fabrics like leather, denim | Exceptionally strong, durable |
| Topstitch Seam | Decorative exterior stitching | Jackets, pants where visible stitching is a feature | Adds style, reinforces seam, additional strength |
| Inset Seam | Inserts a panel or gusset into the garment | Sleeves, waistbands, side panels | Structured fit, allows for greater movement |
Each of these seams serves a specific purpose, and selecting the right one is essential to achieving the desired fit, strength, and aesthetic of your garment. Understanding these 10 various types of seams will elevate your sewing skills and help you create more professional, long-lasting clothing.
How to Finish Seams: Techniques for Professional Results
Finishing seams is an important step in making garments because it prevents fraying and makes items last longer. As a professional, selecting the right technique for finishing seams can make all the difference in the quality of your work and the final, high end finish.
Serging with an overlock machine is one of the most reliable methods. This method cuts the edges raw and engulfs them in a strong, secure stitch. That makes it perfect for those fabrics that have a tendency to fray, like knits or lightweight woven fabrics. Another good choice is bias binding for a cleaner, more polished finish. This method encased the raw edges in single fold bias tape and not only prevented fraying, but gave a refined look that is ideal to interior seams in dresses or jackets.
The Hong Kong finish is a delicate, professional alternative for lightweight fabrics. It’s binding the raw edges with bias tape, folding it over the edge and stitching it down. It makes it into a nice smooth finish, functional and stylish.
For the simplest and most effective finish, you can fold the seam allowance under and stitch in the ditch, making sure to keep the edge of the material secured. It’s quick, keeps the raw edges secured, and makes for a clean interior without the need for special tools.
Experimenting with these techniques not only makes your garments last longer but dresses them up a notch.
Seam Applications in Garment Making: Practical Examples
Garment construction requires seams, and the use of seams depends on the design, fabric and purpose of the garment. Lapped seams are great for heavy duty fabrics, such as jackets and coats, because they are durable and weather resistant. Their overlapping help to give it further strength. Princess seams are a common style used in dresses & fitted tops due to its functionality and decorative benefits. The body follows the natural curve of the body and adds to the silhouette of the garment.
Flat felled seams, also known as fell seams, are used often in jeans and trousers for casual wear. The raw edges are enclosed ensuring durability and a clean finish. Furthermore, bound seams with contrast stitching can be a source to increase visual interest for high-end garments and display how different seam types can be used for both strength and style. Different seam types aid in accomplishing each purpose, smoothing things out functionally and aesthetically in garment making.
The Role of Seam Finishes in Preventing Fraying and Improving Durability
Fabric tends to fray at the edges, particularly after you’ve washed and worn it many times. Seam finishes, such as chain stitch, are where that comes in. They prevent raw edges and keep garments together. Finishes such as serging or zig zag stitches greatly extend the life of the garment, especially with loose weaves or delicate fibers.
Seam finishes contribute to aesthetics beyond durability. A clean finish inside a garment is a sign of professional craftsmanship. Finishes for high end garments includes the Hong Kong finish or bias bound seams that neatly enclose fabric edges. Even the most casual sewing project can prevent fraying if you simply pink the edge with pinking shears. Finally, the right seam finish not only prolongs the life of the garment, but also improves the quality of the garment.
Conclusion: Elevate Your Sewing Projects with the Right Seams
Knowing the various seam types is a must know for any sewing enthusiast or professional. Knowing the strengths and uses of different types of seams will help you select the best seam for each project, and still look good. From decorative seams to plain seams, there are a number of advantages that each seam type has to offer and they do so by addressing specific fabrics and designs.
By concentrating on seam finishes and learning things like the Hong Kong finish or bias binding, you will be able to raise the quality of your projects. As you continue to sew and increase your time in practice your knowledge of seam types will transform your sewing skills and enable you to sew up garments that are amazingly durable but also amazingly beautiful. Steeped in the local tradition, you too, are ready to stitch your way to perfection? Let’s get started!